In Paris, the chic and poetic fashion of Anrealage, Lanvin and Stella McCartney

Published



September 30, 2025

Tuesday delivered an intense second day, bringing together new names, stars and established houses. Couturiers unveiled a host of enticing new offerings, propelling Paris Fashion Week into full swing. Among those who stood out were Anrealage, Lanvin and Stella McCartney.

Anrealage, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At Anrealage, the clothes came alive. In lifelike motion, myriad layers of silk ruffles, sewn together to form a bubble bodice, lifted delicately at the bust in time with a heartbeat. Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga delivered a deeply moving show for next summer, aided, as ever, by cutting-edge technology.

He has imagined and produced a collection devoted to movement, with garments that breathe and move autonomously, coming to life as if by magic. Here, the lapels of a coat gently parted. There, the scrolled edges of a ruffled dress rose and floated in the air for a moment before settling back down. Further on, large chiffon collars fluttered from right to left.

The collection exuded incredible vitality, thanks also to a cascade of multicoloured motifs, illustrations and prints unfurled across every fabric employed: silk, organza, poplin and more. They were painted by artists who are neurodivergent or have intellectual disabilities, and who collaborate with the Japanese brand Heralbony.

Anrealage elevated their creations with voluminous frilled dresses, cheerful frock coats, flared trousers and mosaic jacquard coats. Wide, billowing ruffles layered into airy cocoon silhouettes.

A playful animal touch humorously enlivened this vividly colourful wardrobe via accessories such as leather gloves tipped with golden claws, or adorable plush cat bags with stuffed tails, which the models hugged and stroked affectionately.

Lanvin, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

For his second show at Lanvin, artistic director Peter Copping continued his careful work of rebuilding, delving into the archives of France’s oldest couture house to bring them up to date. The sinuous silhouettes felt both modern and timeless, with an almost imperceptible retro touch.

The distinctive 1920s column line, along with Art Deco references, runs through the collection, as do Jeanne Lanvin’s signature bows, tied here along the arms or tracing a neckline. And of course, the house’s blue was highlighted across various looks. The maison is now owned by the Chinese giant Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun Fashion Group).

Both men and women wore headbands. By day and by night, they embodied the “ultimate chic” redefined by Copping—by turns everyday and glamorous—with voluminous blouses slipped over slim trousers and fluid dresses composed of long, twirling panels, sometimes lit with crystals. For a touch of sensuality, fitted roll-neck jumpers and tailored jackets were completely backless.

When he’s not in classic suits or coats, the Lanvin man goes bolder, opting for a Prince of Wales-check Bermuda-shorts suit or embracing punchy colours—say, a turquoise silk shirt with abstract patterns paired with lime green jeans.

Stella McCartney, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

In the evening, Stella McCartney set the mood at the Centre Pompidou. Crowds thronged the forecourt as guests took their seats in the iconic building. In the front row, as always, a host of celebrities, including Helen Mirren, who opened the show by reciting the first verse of the Beatles’ “Come Together”.

This famous song, once performed by Paul McCartney—the father of the British designer known for her eco-conscious fashion—provided the collection’s thread. “Come together right now over me,” said the English actress, setting the tone for the show.

The models strode down the long catwalk, dressed by turns in elegant business suits or skater mini-dresses, each holding a brightly coloured bag.

Lightness was the order of the day. Jackets and blouses flared into corollas. Skirts unfurled in long, undulating trains. Cloud-like bodysuits and dresses bristled with ostrich feathers in pastel hues. Bubble tops were tousled with fabric fringing. Clinging roll-neck dresses seemed to melt over the body.
 

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