Welcome to Bon Appétit Bake Club, a community of curious bakers. Each month senior test kitchen editors Jesse Szewczyk and Shilpa Uskokovic share a must-make recipe and dive deep on why it works. Come bake and learn with us—ask questions, share pics, listen to our podcast, and lots more here. And don’t forget to join the Bake Club Group chat over on Substack.

Chocolate and olive oil are a match made in heaven: both nuanced and fruity with a touch of bitter complexity. When combined into a cookie, the pairing shines, only heightened by the sweetness of sugar. Here olive oil is used in place of butter to create a quick, mixer-free cookie dough that turns your standard butter-based recipe on its head. It’s a classic chocolate chip cookie dough, but all grown-up, with an alluring fruitiness and slightly savory edge. The dough is made by toasting a portion of the flour directly in the olive oil, not unlike making a roux, until the flour is tanned and takes on notes of caramel. This cooked flour mixture is whisked with sugar to create a rich brown-butter-like base without relying on any actual dairy. In fact, the cookie is entirely vegan—but only incidentally so. We found that without eggs, the cookies came out delightfully chewy in the center with a contrasting crisp exterior. So for those looking for a great vegan cookie option, look no further. But for those simply looking for a fun new pantry-friendly chocolate chip cookie recipe to take for a spin, this is also for you. It has won over even the most die-hard of butter lovers.

Baker’s tip: When picking out a bottle of olive oil to use, I like to opt for something nice but not an entire splurge. A readily available bottle like California Olive Ranch is a great option, lending the cookie a fruity, ever-so-slightly floral quality. More expensive bottles, often labeled “drizzling” or “finishing,” tend to overwhelm the cookie with spicy, grassy notes. And a word of caution to anyone diving into this recipe: Don’t skip the water in the dough. Without eggs or butter, the dough needs some moisture from the added water to properly hydrate and activate the leaveners.