The opening look of Alexia Ulibarri’s collection, a sculptural, two-layer balloon skirt paired with a cropped, high-neck leather cape top, laser-cut and worn just above the bust, set the tone for the drama that followed. Ulibarri devoted considerable time to conceptualizing the show, drawing inspiration from La Celestina, the classic medieval Spanish novel where the titular character is a kind of witch; the idea was to explore feminine intuition and ancestral wisdom. “The girl who begins to connect with her dark side, her emotions, and her magic,” she riffed.

That concept materialized vividly in the designs, from T-shirts boldly emblazoned with the word bruja, to voluminous tulle skirts in asymmetric cuts, to reimagined corsetry with extra cups that accentuated the hips. “The female body is so magical it doesn’t need to be compressed into a corset,” Ulibarri said. Masks also appeared, surrealistically merging with the garments and, at times, becoming extensions of the female form. The collection spoke of duality, “of being in one place and many places at once.” The palette oscillated between sky blue and black, punctuated by fuchsia pink, a hue deeply rooted in Mexican culture.

For this collection, Ulibarri let nostalgia guide her with memories of the early days of her career, 15 years ago, when tulle was the only fabric she could afford. Under those circumstances, she began creating voluminous, experimental pieces. Today, she leads a workshop of over 20 women—a living testament to the feminine force that defines her work.