After an intense month of fashion weeks, from New York to Paris via London and Milan, marked by numerous debuts at the helm of major brands, the fashion world is catching its breath. FashionNetwork.com sought buyers’ views on the season. Nicholas Atteshlis, who heads designer relations at Zalando, analyses these major debuts and highlights the dynamism of London’s young creatives.

FashionNetwork.com: Which creative director debuts or new creative directions do you consider the most successful this season?

Nicholas Atteshlis: The collections that stood out for me were Louise Trotter’s at Bottega Veneta, for having perfectly captured the house’s DNA: discreet luxury, meticulous attention to detail, and quality expressed through sumptuous fabrics. It is difficult to judge the success of a debut so soon after its presentation, as it takes time for a creative vision to resonate with consumers. This is particularly true when a major change is involved, such as Jonathan Anderson at Dior.

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FNW: In the current context of major changes for the industry, what is your overall take on this season’s creativity and commercial direction?

NA: With so many changes in creative-director roles and so much media attention around their arrivals, most designers have opted for a more radical approach to product direction, as seen at Dior and Gucci. On the commercial side, it seems the major houses are continuing to elevate their offer through pricing and positioning, in line with previous seasons.

FNW: Which shows or moments stood out the most for you, and why?

NA: Given the recent passing of Mr Armani after such a long and respected career, it would be hard to imagine a show more emotional than his.

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FNW: Beyond the clothes, which show concept or activation was the most impactful and could be translated into a strong commercial proposition?

NA: Gucci immediately comes to mind when you consider how many people can be reached through cinema, and the potential spin-offs that follow. The Chanel show didn’t disappoint either, with its homage to the solar system. While I can’t see this translating directly into physical stores, I can imagine it being adapted for events.

FNW: Among the independent brands and young designers, which offerings stood out for their ability to marry creative audacity with market potential?

NA: Like most of my colleagues, when I think of young designers, I immediately think of London. Designers such as Dilara Findikoglu, whose show paid homage to the late Alexander McQueen with dark, structured silhouettes, come to mind. Aaron Esh, for example, offered pieces that were both cutting-edge and easy to wear day to day.

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FNW: What materials, textures and colour palettes will most energise the offer and create desire among customers?

NA: As an online fashion destination, we’re constantly looking for products that make our pages stand out. Bright colours like bubblegum pink and shades of gold are always a big hit!

FNW: When it comes to accessories, do you see a strong trend emerging?

NA: We’re seeing strong consumer demand for fine jewellery. Customers are turning to more affordable yet still high-quality brands.