Not many designers can draw in a crowd like Emmy Kasbit, with celebrities and influencers flooding into the Lagos Fashion Week show venue. For his spring 2026 collection, Emmanuel Okoro, founder and creative director, said farewell to the old Emmy Kasbit. “This is not a continuation, it’s a rebirth,” he said backstage.

Okoro drew inspiration from King Jaja, a prominent figure and founder of the Opobo Kingdom in Eastern Nigeria. Determined to authentically tell the story of the late king and “bring back his legacy,” Okoro and his team traveled to Jaja’s hometown to learn more about his history. While exploring the riverine community, Okoro felt inspired by elements from the king’s childhood, the colors of his home, as well as his personal style. This trifecta formed the foundations of his collection. “What we try to do at Emmy Kasbit is preserve culture,” he said, which means embedding such stories into the fabric and storytelling of the collection.

Okoro reimagined what King Jaja would wear if he were alive in present-day Lagos, and the opening look paid homage to that. As the lights came on, a black and white image of Jaja seated on a grand wooden throne was projected onto the backdrop of the stage. Below the photograph, a model sat on a wooden throne, wearing a woven hat, a matching brown shirt and trousers, and an oversized shoulder bag –– an outfit Okoro said was heavily inspired by Jaja’s reign and ’70s Nigeria.

Heavy prints and logos once dominated Emmy Kasbit collections. This season marked a break in that cycle, as Okoro turned his attention to fabrication. He played around with silk, stretching the fabric to create fringe detailing on several of the garments. He also experimented with new materials, including linen and deadstock wool. Standout looks included a brown blazer paired with cream trousers and an oversized fringed bag, as well as the closing outfit which saw the model wear an oversized fringed fuchsia pink coat, paired with a matching knee-length skirt.