Roasted squash feels like a quintessentially autumnal side and, in keeping with the mood of the season, can feel a bit sleepy. But with fresh ginger and chile, this platter of glossy miso-glazed mixed squash is bright and alive, a riot of textures and flavors. The frizzled-scallion topping—a nod to Cantonese steamed fish, which often arrives at the table covered with great tufts of the stuff—suffuses the whole dish with a complex oniony perfume. Slicing the scallions into long, thin wisps creates the most delicate garnish, so take your time. Carefully cut 1 scallion at a time, even a day ahead when you’re less likely to be rushed. Store the sliced scallions in the fridge in an airtight container with a barely damp paper towel on top. For the crispiest texture, fry the scallions as close to serving as possible.