Elie Saab, master of fairytale glamour, must have left his magic wand at home this season. Gone were the thousand-and-one-night gowns, the golden shimmer, the embroidery that could outshine a chandelier. Instead, the show opened with Deva Cassel, Monica Bellucci’s daughter, in a slinky khaki pencil skirt and a silk blouse unbuttoned just so, strutting...