At Mezcaleria Alma, the tight Mexico City–inspired food menu features nothing but hits: mandarin aguachile with a heaping portion of raw scallop and uni, a masa pocket filled with applewood-smoked tuna and cheese, and pasilla-braised short rib with black beans. But one hit not to be missed is the dry-aged toro tostada. If you choose to sit at the counter (which you absolutely should), you can watch chef Johnny Curiel or one of his chefs plate the tostada, beginning with a crisp tortilla, layering on a smattering of smashed avocado, and dotting it with charred habanero mayo. The main attraction is, of course, the blanket of dry-aged toro, which gets a spoonful of sesame chili oil and is all covered with a generous smattering of thinly sliced chives. Each bite feels simultaneously indulgent and fresh, just like many of the dishes at this Best New Restaurant. —K.K.
Farmer’s Cheese Dumpling
Fet-Fisk, Pittsburgh (a Best New Restaurant of 2025)
Pittsburgh is a pierogi town, but the savory farmer’s cheese dumpling at Fet-Fisk belongs to its own category of doughy delight. Yes, it is singular; one per order, at the time of my ordering, the solo XXL mound arrived zaftig in shape, spoon-tender, adrift in a delicate fermented chili broth. The dish is inspired by the steamed Hungarian túró dumpling and is not a menu staple, due to the laborious, fresh cheesemaking process, so if it appears, don’t think twice and tack it on with a slew of other snacky small plates. Its accompaniments change, subject to what’s on hand, as is chef Nik Forsberg’s navigating principle: inventory what’s available, whether cured, fermented, or fresh-frozen from the farmers market, ideate from there—an resourceful approach familiar to the Nordic ethos from which this neighborhood restaurant borrows its culinary influence. Pair it with a glass from the intriguing curated wine list and enjoy in the wood-paneled bar room beneath the vampish red lamplight. —Jennifer Hope Choi, senior service editor
Tête de Veau Ravigote
Le Veau d’Or, New York
If you go to Le Veau D’Or in hopes of having a light meal, I’d tell you to go somewhere else, especially if you intended to order the tête de veau ravigote. Sure, you could opt for the petite omelet or mackerel au vin blanc at the historic revival of Le Veau on the Upper East Side, where the team behind Frenchette and Le Rock has devised a mandatory $135 prix-fixe menu with optional add-ons. The celebratory luxury at the nostalgic Parisian bistro lies, however, in the pâté en croûte, pommes soufflées with caviar, the île flottante, and most of all, the tête de veau ravigote. Jelly-like cubes of veal head are fried and served with a zingy ravigote sauce. It’s topped with segmented hard-boiled eggs and greens, for a brief moment of relief from the richness. —K.K.
Chochoyotes
Acamaya, New Orleans (a Best New Restaurant of 2025)
Before I dined at Acamaya, I wasn’t really thinking I needed a new favorite dumpling style. I was mainly looking forward to vibing in sisters Ana and Lydia Castro’s new coastal Mexican spot. Sitting at the bar, nursing a drink while overlooking the work in the adjacent open-concept kitchen, I did not feel like I was in New Orleans. And then the chochoyotes, thumb-print-size masa dumplings, landed in front of me. Though the kitchen switches up the presentation seasonally, on my visit, these tender little pillows floated in a delicate tomatoey broth alongside chunks of local Louisiana crab. The whole experience tasted of the sea and the end of summer, punctuated by soft little cloudbursts on the palate. In case you, too, didn’t know you needed a new fave dumpling, well, now you know. —Joseph Hernandez, associate director of drinks & lifestyle
Fig Leaf and Cucumber
Recoveco, South Miami (a Best New Restaurant of 2025)
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