Is it a shoe? Or is it a sneaker? 

Asics’ new Gel-Kinetic SP model dips its toes into both categories, playing off the hybrid footwear trend that’s emerged in the trail of sneaker loafer proliferation. It’s not a traditional lace-up shoe, but it’s not your typical athletic sneaker, either. It’s a mash-up that plays upon the strengths of both types of footwear, fusing Asics’ technical design language with the build and patina of a well-loved dress shoe.    

The Gel-Kinetic SP’s sole pulled directly from the Japanese brand’s Gel-Quantum Kinetic model. The vis-tech look takes Asics’ Gel cushioning to the extreme, an approach which required the expertise of the Asics Institute of Sport Science. By pairing Gel with the brand’s advanced FF (FlyteFoam) Blast foam, Asics says the setup is ideal for commuting through the city and long periods spent standing. 

Yoshinori Tateishi, global senior designer for Asics Sportstyle, told FN that early ideas around the Gel-Kinetic SP started to form in spring 2024. It was around then that the brand noticed a resurgence of what it calls “classic fashion styles,” particularly among Gen Z consumers. But Tateishi and the Asics team realized that a generation raised on cushy, sporty sneakers often found that dress shoes weren’t comfortable — or expressive — enough for their liking.

This led Asics to experiment with ways to make a dress-style shoe that’s actually comfortable enough for day-to-day wear. “We wanted to offer a more formal option that still aligns with the expectations of today’s fashion-conscious audience,” says Tateishi.

Basing the upper around the look of a classic derby shoe, the build of the Gel-Kinetic SP was adjusted from within to ensure flexibility when bending and to provide a more accommodating fit, two aspects that aren’t typically found in leather dress shoes. 

Tateishi says the Gel-Kinetic SP’s design process featured three key tenets. First was a simple, trad-style aesthetic. Then, it was important for the design to be genderless and unisex, something that everyone could wear confidently. And lastly, the brand sought to implement technology that is truly comfortable with breathability, cushioning, fit and flexibility in mind. 

“The hybrid trend, blending dress shoes with technical sneaker elements, has been expanding globally,” Tateishi said. “But for us, it was essential that the Gel-Kinetic SP didn’t become just another take on this trend. Instead, we wanted to present a distinctly Asics interpretation, combining sports-derived performance with a refined, classic aesthetic. By merging genuine footwear craftsmanship with our unique technologies, the Gel-Kinetic SP establishes its own clear identity. It participates in the trend without being absorbed by it, and that individuality was extremely important in the design process.”

Attempting to merge athletic footwear and smart casual shoes can be risky. Not every hybrid experiment is a success, and brands such as Cole Haan are sometimes derided on social media for their oxford-meets-technical-sneaker styling. The “office sneaker” has turned into a full-blown meme, conjuring up images of knitted derbies and fleece vests. 

Yet, with the Gel-Kinetic SP, the Asics team looks poised to bring some much-needed cool to the concept. The sneakers are limited, available only from select retailers globally and from Kith in North America. There’s no British Tan burnished leather or stacked foam soles. Instead, they look like something that will pair easily with streetwear or more elevated “quiet luxury” labels. 

“Our main objective from the beginning was to create a truly comfortable dress shoe, a product that doesn’t force consumers to compromise between style and comfort,” Tateishi said. “We explored a wide range of tooling options and ultimately chose the Gel-Kinetic platform, which delivers one of the highest levels of comfort within the Asics lineup.”

Ray Ralph, buyer at Nashville retailer Rooted, has had an intimate view of the ebb and flow of the sneaker hybrid concept. Ralph tells FN that the trend still has legs, and points to the numerous brands that are releasing new spins on the idea. Rather than remaining solely fixating on loafers, the releases are evolving with mash-up models like mary jane sneakers and Kith’s fusion of the Clarks Wallabee with Adidas technology. Although Rooted isn’t yet stocking the Gel-Kinetic SP, Ralph is impressed with Asics’ approach.

“I think Asics does a great job at choosing partners,” Ralph says. “They also do a great job of segmenting products. A bunch of subtle nods to ‘if you know, you know’ lifestyle, which is why Asics will always be cool. I don’t think they’ll ever get played out.”

While some brands have merely retraced the footsteps of their competitors in the sneaker loafer category, Asics is taking on the trend in its own way, applying legacy design language with elements that appeal to the modern consumer. Although it’s most commonly associated with mesh and synthetic-based shoes, Asics has used leather on numerous past releases, but never quite like what’s found on the Gel-Kinetic SP.

“The Gel-Kinetic SP takes a more intentional approach,” Tateishi says. “For this model, we chose a more authentic, slightly ‘worn-in’ leather to create a unique balance of nostalgia and modernity. The derby-style upper structure, combined with biomorphic elements that enhance flexibility and fit, allows the leather’s natural characteristics and aging process to shine. The design strikes a balance between the material’s expressive texture and the technical lightness of Asics technology, making this model particularly suited to leather-based construction.”